The trip to Lwow
From the moment you start living in Krakow you hear titillating rumours from the locals about Lwow. They make it sound like a romantic disreputable uncle who disappeared somewhere in the Amazon. Happily it didn’t disappear, it’s just over the border in Ukraine. Lwow was part of Poland for 400 years and then the capital of Galicia, under Austrian rule, for another century and a half. Krakow was also in Galicia, but was essentially a provincial town. Lwow was the cultural and political centre of this part of Poland for hundreds of years until 1939. It’s disappearance from the Polish map was a real wrench.